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1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 111 (77)

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition
1953-54 Theatre Catalog
1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 111
Page 111

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 111

All operational drawings are through the courtesy of O. M. Scott and Sons Co.. and from their authoriiive booklet "Scott's Lawn Care."

Young grass plants should be clipped only with a sharp mower or scythe. Make the first clipping when the grass is one half inch short of iilopping overfi and clip not more than one inch of the blade, preferably less. As the clippings are beneficial to the growth of the grass, they should be left where they fall.

It is strongly advised that the lawn area be fully prepared for seed in the fall, regardless of the time the job is finished. If it is not possible to sow the seed before the ground freezes, seed on wet snow or on fihorieycombed" soil.


Grass plants must have a complete fertilzer, that is, one having nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash, the more important elements frequently deficient in the soil. Nitrogen stimulates leaf growth, phosphorus is necessary for root development, and potash aids in developing the stem, maturing the plant, and resistance to diseases. Grass leaves contain the food taken from the soil, and will return a large portion of these valuable minerals in the correct ratio if not removed.

Bean meals and manures can be considered as complete and well balanced fertilizers, and can be applied safely at 16 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Dried and pulverized poultry manure can be used at a rate of 20 to 30 pounds.

An ideal fertilizer program calls for three applications, one about April 15 or 20, a second May 15 to 20, and a third from September 5 to 10. If only one can be given, there is a slight preference for the September dates.

Fertilizers applied in the spring will help the grass to crowd out summer weeds, while fertilizers applied in the summer cause abnormal growth and strain upon the plants, and fall fertilizing prepares the turf for the winter and results in an early and aggressive growth in the spring.

After the fertilizer is distributed, the area is dragged diagonally several times to smooth out the surface and work the fertilizer into the root zone. Dragging with a light weight drag also serves to fill in low spots and level off high areas.


The frequency with which a lawn is mowed should be governed by the length of the grass and the prospective weather, rather than by Setting a regular, fixed


interval. A thick, well-fed lawn may be clipped closer and more often than one that is thin and underfed.

Lawn turf should be mowed often enough to prevent mats of cut grass showing 36 hours after cutting. If they appear, these mats should be brushed into the lawn area or gathered and thrown away. All other clippings should remain on the turf.

Set the mower to clip not lower than one and a quarter inches, preferably one and a half inches, and clip the grass when it is not more than two and a half inches tall. If the lawn is not fall fertilized, raise the height of cut one half inch from September 1.

Newly seeded lawns should be permitted to grow to the lopping over height, and the first mowing should be done with a sharp mower set one half inch higher than the desired minimum. It is much better for the grass to clip it very early in the morning than in the later afternoon or early evening.


A thorough soaking once in six or eight days is more economical and more beneficial than short sprinklings, which draw the grass roots near the surface

where they are very susceptible to wear, drought, freezing, sun, and wind drying. Apply water slowly at first, and, if possible, no faster than the soil will absorb it.

Early morning is the best time to water the lawn, although grass will not be injured by watering while the sun is shining brightly.

It is important to remember that over watering will do much more harm than under Watering or no watering at all.

Seasonal Care

Comblng the lawn in the spring with a rounded wire rake or a wooden lawn rake is desirable, but the use of a wire or rattan broom should be avoided. If the lawn area is rough, the raking should be postponed until after rolling.

Spring rolling is very ii'nportant, as it will press back into the soil the grass crowns which have been lifted by frost action. In regard to rolling, it should be remembered to roll the ground only when it is dry, use as light weight a roller as possible to accomplish the smoothing, and, unless the soil is very sandy, roll only once.

Parts of the lawn which receive heavy traffic should be deep forked early each spring. Insert the fork into the sod to the full length of the tines, bear down on the handle until the turf is cracked, and then lift up on the handle and with draw the fork. Fork holes should be four to six inches apart. If the area is too large for hand forking, run a heavily weighted disc harrow over the lawn, with the discs set to run straight. There are mechanical soil looseners and aerators which can be used very satisfactorily.

This loosening of the soil is the most important maintenance operation, and should not be neglected, for it enables the grass roots to get vital oxygen and permits water to penetrate the soil more easily.

It is wasteful to sow grass seed on a fairly well established lawn; fertilize instead. Bare areas should be deeply raked and seeded, and thin areas should be loosened by deep forking before seeding in the fall.

The white circular patches that appear on the lawn in the spring are caused by snow mold fungus, and should be brushed with a stiff broom to destroy the fungi and cause the grass to stand erect, permitting air and sunlight to reach the soil and grass crowns. Snow mold seldom kills grass, but, if not brushed, it seriously weakens it for later growth.

Lawns need no winter protection from cold, and will very likely be severely injured if covered with hay or straw. However, lawns are frequently injured by drying winds during the winter, and a snow fence or light covering of brush will prevent such injury.

Weed Control

It is now much easier to keep large lawn areas free of unsightly field weeds with the recent discoveries in chemical weed control. The most easily applied and readily available of these new products feeds the grass and eliminates weeds in a single operation. Moreover, this product is spread as a dry application and requires no special spraying equipment. Spray weed killers may be more conveniently used on areas which do not require close maintenance, such as roadside turf, and are quite effective in destroying ragweed, golden rod, thistles, and other irritating plants. The use of weed controls in the late summer and early fall will greatly reduce weed growth during the following spring and summer.

Weed control should not present much of a problem with a lawn that is well built, fall seeded with the correct varieties of grass for the location, well fed, and given reasonably good cultural care. An established lawn that is practically free of weeds will continue so if cultural practices are kept within the grass limits of tolerance, for thick grass is the best known weed killer.
1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 111