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1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 277 (241)

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition
1953-54 Theatre Catalog
1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 277
Page 277

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 277

THIS DRAWING (Fig. 2) shows how the stretch wire should be put in when erecting the screen.

objects that would otherwise be blurred in the black background become sharply outlined and are visible.


The sheer novelty of a movie screen surrounded by light instead of the black masking, has a special appeal to the audience. By not having a sharp line of demarcation from the light to the dark, as is present when the screen is masked, the eyes have a chance to widen to their natural vision and not concentrate on a brightly illuminated picture area. It takes eye muscles to narrow down vision, and this in turn results in eye strain and headache. The Caldwell Halo screen is said to allow full vision with no muscular action, and thus completely eliminates all eye strain, usually accompanying the viewing of the old type screen with black mask surrounding it.

Installation Procedures

The first thing to do in installing the Caldwell Halo screen is to find dead center of the stage. Locate it and mark a chalk line thereon that can be used during the installation to center all hanging material. It is most important that everything be centered. Also outline on the floor with chalk, the present position of the screen frame. As all measurements for screen size are based on this exact position of the screen, it is most important that the frame remain at this exact position when the Halo screen is finally assembled.

Begin taking down the black masking from around the screen on both sides top and bottom. Be careful when removing this material as it is later to be used again for backing as the screen is porous, and the rear lighting must be blocked off through the use of this masking or it will show through the projected picture.

After all the masking has been removed, lower the screen frame to the floor and allow it to extend flat out over the pit onto the first few rows of seats, or if the stage is large enough, allow it to lie flat on stage so that it can be cut down to size. On frames that have two by four corner braces on them, these are to be removed and a flap piece of band iron substituted and the frame recessed so as to allow the band iron corner braces to fit flush with the frame. This must be done as the screen has to be laced over and around from the front and laced in the rear. If the entire rear surface of the frame is not flush, trouble will be experienced with lacing and all the wrinkles will not be able to be removed on the front surface of the screen.

On frames that have a center two by four upright support, this must be cut and fitted in flush to the inside edge of frame so as not to interfere with the lacing at this point.

When the screen is cut to size and corner braces are recessed and center Upright support is fitted dush with inside of the edge of the frame, make sure that all bolts are tightened and then check the frame for "square." Check all four corners and square if necessary.

Mark dead center of frame on top, bottom. and both sides as the screen is also marked with dead centers. This will

1953.54 THEATRE ounces







Set in back of screen 24"





assist in properly locating the screen when it is unrolled prior to lacing it to frame. The screen has an overall of 10 inches more than the frame size to permit it being brought around the outer edge of the frame and back around the rear and to be laced in the rear.


If the screen is to be flown, the conventional hanging will be used, namely cables to the grid through the screw eyes on the top of the frame. If cantilever hanging is to be used, it will be necessary to drill four 3/g-inch holes straight through the side of the screen frame prior to lacing the screen. This can be done when the frame is on the door during the cutting down to size operation. The cantilever comes in two sections bolted together. Seperate the two sections and use the HY" section as a template to locate the four %-inch holes to be drilled, as holes in this ftYi, section are already drilled in the steel and this section should be dead Center on the sides of the frame to permit proper balancing. When these %-inch holes have been drilled, insert the 5/16 by seven-inch carriage bolts that are furnished with this job, and knock them into the frame until they are hush with the outer edge of the frame.

The drilling of these %-inch holes and the knocking in of the bolts flush with the outer edge of the frame should be done prior to lacing the screen to frame to hide the bolts from side vision. Also all lacing hooks should be removed for the entire distance the ttY" section of the cantilever occupies. Nails should be substituted for these hooks for this distance only so that when the cantilever is finally installed, the nails can be temporarily removed and then put back once the "Y" section of the cantilever is in place and bolted down. Holes are drilled in the "Y" section to drive the nails through.


Some prefer to start the lacing when the screen frame is lying flat, supported from beneath with boxes or wooden horses to permit getting in and around underneath for the lacing. Others prefer to have the frame in upright position before starting lacing. Whatever method is used, the dead center marks on the frame will be of aid in locating the screen itself before the lacing is started. Get lacing all done before proceeding fur !i" PIPE


ther, making sure all wrinkles are removed from the outer surface.

If old screen is to be used, it will have to be tacked onto outside edge of the frame. Start in center of each side and work out to edges. Trim off surplus with scissors.

You now have the frame cut to size and the new screen or old stretched on this frame, the 5/16 by seven-inch bolts inserted through the frame at dead center, so you are ready to hoist the screen to an upright position so as to attach the cantilevers. Make yourself a set of two guages for distance from door (18 inches). This can be done through the use of two pieces of lumber any size that overlap each other. Fasten these with finishing nails to outer edges of screen frame and they will enable you to see at a glance the correct position of the screen at this point. They will aiso enable you to see if the screen is lined up with chalk marks on the stage you originally made prior to taking the screen down.

The next step is to attach the lighting troughs on the rear of the screen frame. With each shipment of lighting troughs, a pencil sketch of the proper position of each section is also found. There are steel brackets on each section for attaching the troughs to the frame. Use wood screws for attaching. Metal screws are included with each section for attaching section to section. Wire connectors are also furnished with each shipment for connecting wires. The wiring is parallel. Connect wire to white, and black to black. On the lower section where wires come out through a bushing, a feeder line is to be attached thereto and brought back through the cyclorama, but kept high enough as not to show to the audience. A dimmer can be inserted in series to reduce the intensity of the lights, if the management prefers it reduced.

Now you have the screen on the frame, and the frame hung on wires, and the lighting troughs installed. The next step is to install the "Y" sections and bolt them down firmly.

Do not put the til" section of the cantilever in place until the rear cyclorama has been hung, as it is evident that the cantilever has to come through the rear cyclorama, and holes must be located prior to cutting them in the cyclorama to 'permit the passage of the cyclorama through the cantilever. If cables are hung and cantilever assembled prior to the
1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 277