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1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 278 (242)

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition
1953-54 Theatre Catalog
1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 278
Page 278

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 278

hanging of the cyclorama, the hanging wires will be visible and cyclorama cannot be brought close enough to the actual screen. The completion of the assembly of the cantilever must be delayed until the cyclorama is hung and the holes located for the cantiliver to come through. The set of lines used to hang the screen prior to the installation of the cantilever must be 30 inches ahead of the cantilever cables as the distance on the "Y" section of the cantilever from the tip of that section to the hole bored for the cable is 30 inches.

When you set up the turnbuckles, make them halfway so that they can be let in or out as they need be. The purpose of the turnbuckles is to properly balance up and level the screen in any direction. The turnbuckles on the floor can be used to tilt the screen either in or out as may be required. In cases of marked theystonell effect, the Screen can be tilted up towards the booth to overcome a ttKeystonelf or greatly reduce it.


You are now ready to install the cyclorama. This comes with tie lines on the top, and a pocket in the bottom for the insertion of a pipe batton (a piece of {54-inch black pipe). You will also need a length of one and one-half inch pipe for the top. Mark dead center on this pipe in white. Get dead center of the cyclorama and line up and with the ties fasten the cyclorama two inches from the floor and tie off the lines. However, before raising this top batton, insert the stretch wire into the pipe at ends and knock a wooden plug into the inside of the pipe to hold the wire from pulling into the center. The end of the batton should extend out two feet from the edge of the cyclorama, Run the stretch wire through all the rings on the edge of the cyclorama straight through to bottom. Put turnbuckles in at the bottom and take a strain on them. Not too much as it will pull the rings out of the cyclorama, but enough to take out any wrinkles in the cyclorama.


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Do not fasten the cyclorama to the floor, which is afterwards done with pipe clamps, as the cyclorama must be left free to move backwards when installs ing the cantilevers and masking.

Now is the time to install the black masking behind the screen. Use at least a four foot wide section, preferably a six foot section, of this masking and tack it onto the inside edge of the screen frame in the rear. Get it tucked in tightly so that none of the reflected light on the cyclorama can come through when the picture is projected. Do this on top and bottom of the frame and also on the sides. Turn out all house lights and with the cyclorama hanging, but not fastened to the floor, turn on your trough lights on the rear of the frame and go into the theatre at the first row of seats and see if there is any light getting through. If there is still light, it is due to the fact that you did not use a wide enough piece of masking and the front of the cyclorama will have to be coated with a flat black water paint wherever the light shows. This coating with water paint is hardly ever necessary, but it is merely mentioned in case the emergency arises.

Measure the distance from the floor to ifY" section on the cantilever arm and cut a slit in the cyclorama for the cross arm of the cantilever to come through. Insert this section of the cantilever through the cyclorama and this will bring the cyclorama closer to the rear of the screen and frame.

The next step is to attach the til" beam section of the cantilever to the flei section. This is done with two % bolts and nuts. Tighten these very tight, but not enough to strip. Let in the two cables that you have previously located overhead for the cantilever and fasten to the ffI" section. Turnbuckles are used at this point to make this connection. See that these turnbuckles are let half in to allow for adjustment either way. When both cantilevers have been installed and turnbuckles adjusted, take a strain on these lines so as to make the front line holding the screen slacken a bit, and to permit their removal and your


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screen is then hung on the cantilever entirely. Adjustment of the screen to correct position can then be made through the use of the turnbuckles.

Now install your ground lines of the cantilever. Use eye bolts that will go straight through the floor, and then under the floor use a piece of one by four wood two feet in length to make a washer for the eye bolt when it comes through the fioor. In this way the strain at this point will not be on one piece of flooring, but will be divided across two feet of floor space. This is important since if only one piece of flooring is used, it might possibly pull up and drop the screen frame forward onto the audience. A turnbuckle is used at this point for a line from the "Ill beam section of the cantilever to this eye bolt on the floor. Use % cable and cable clamps to make this connection and tighten the clamps tightly to prevent slippage. Take up on the turnbuckles until there is a strain on the wire. Better yet, hand pull this wire until a strain is taken and then insert the turnbuckles, half turned out so that these turnbuckles can be used to align the screen into its proper position.

Everything is now done and it is time to fasten the cyclorama to the floor. It has been left two inches off the stage floor and by applying pressure with your foot to bring it to the floor, pipe straps, one at each end, can be used to hold it to the floor.

It is essential that all wrinkles be taken out of the cyclorama when it is finally attached. This can be done by applying pressure to turnbuckles holding stretch wire on the sides of the cyclorama, and also when you bring down to stage floor the cyclorama which has been up two inches.

If draw curtains are too far off stage, it will tend to make the picture appear too small. Try and maintain the recommended distances so that the Halo effect will be most pleasing.


The Transcenic screen surround was devised by Raymond Mullen of Leominster, Mass. Raytone Screen Corporation, who is the exclusive distributor for this device, built and installed the first commercial model of the screen at the University, Cambridge, Mass. Other installations have been made, and the results are said to be very satisfactory.

Theory and Method

Currently there are a number of different light-surround screens on the market. The theory is the same for all new systems: Make motion picture screens larger eand then extend the effective picture area so that both eyes observe a full panaroma, just as they do in normal viewing. When this is achieved viewing comfort is said to improve tremendously.

The method of achieving panoramic viewing varies. Essentially there are two schools of thought. The Raytone Trans scenic system believes that the area around the picture should be lighted in a more or less constant value, just as is normal in day or night vision, instead of

INDICATED HERE (Fig. 3) is lho rropor trim (or all equipment used in the Caldwel Halo Screen.

1953-54 Theatre Catalog, 11th Edition, Page 278